Japan Day 2 - Walking in Kyoto

Got up early today (7am!) because I knew I was going to do a lot of walking and sure I did. Total of about 10-12km, many of it consists of climbing the stairs.

Total mileage covered today: 12km+ in 12 hours. Breakdown below -

1. Hills, Temples and Lanes of Southern Higashiyama
Distance: 5km
Time: 3hours 

It was recommended by the German Roomie as a must-go, if I don't have much time in Kyoto. As it is a very popular tourist attraction (for both Japanese and foreigners), I started out very early around this area..about 830am.  This route passes through Chawan-zaka (Teapot Lane), then the huge pagoda of Kiyomizu-dera, and leading to the very huge shrine Chion-in. I got lost several times and strangers were so helpful to actually take the trouble and walk me to the place I am finding. Lots of steps to climb and slopes to walk as Kyoto itself is really a giant basin wedged between 2 mountains.

The highlight of this walk was probably the Tanai-meguri, a smaller shrine beside Kiyomizu-dera. You pay 100￥ where you descend to this basement of total darkness where you cannot see anything but smell the faint scent of incense. It is supposed to be figuratively entering the womb of Guanyin. After a walk of about 2 mins (which feels like forever) you will reach the inner sanctum and see an illuminated large stone where you are supposed to turn it clockwise and make your wish. 

Instructions for entering the Tanai-meguri

I was so freaked out initially and had doubts about really going in there myself but the lady assured me that I just needed to hold on to the railings and walk slowly. It was really scary because the feeling of not being able to see despite not being blindfolded is something much scarier than being blindfolded. I went in anyway, since I needed some wish to be granted (hopefully lah) and I didn't want to fail just because I am afraid of the dark. So...it was a special trip there both in terms of both personal and exploring the quirks of Japanese culture.

2. A Philosophical Meander Through Northern Higashiyama
Distance: 6km
Time: 4hours+

2nd walk was done after lunch at some small Japanese restaurant. Amazingly it was done with just 2 japanese words uttered - "nabeyaki udon".  Took the train to Keage Station where the 2nd walk starts.  It leads from Konchi-in to Nazen-ji, to Eikan-do and finally the Tetsugaku no michi (Path of Philosphy). 

Over here there were even more steps to climb, and at one point I even hiked up a hill and found a shrine built around a waterfall. Over there I saw a group of japanese boys training (running up and down the long flight of steps a few times) and they were nice enough to greet me as they passed me.

The Path of Philosophy has to be the favourite spot of my trip so far. It is a 1.8km walk but I took it really slowly and finished it around 2 hours laer. It is a very nice path lined with cherry trees beside a canal. It is actually right in the middle of a residential area so you see lots of people commuting in bikes, and there weren't too many tourists as well. While strolling, the tinge of loneliness hit me as the intensity of the sunlight gradually fades and the cool breeze got stronger. I just have issues with cool weather, it gets me depressed very easily.

3. Night Walk Through the Floating World
Distance: 3km
Time: 2hours

As the sun set, it was time to leave the 'daytime' sights and get started on the nightlife of Kyoto. Started off at Gion - famed for its seedy activities and geishas. There were many neon billboards with flickering signs and it was packed with tourists. I didn't like this place that much and after walking around and my feet started to ache, I headed home for dinner. The ramen urge hit me hard when Marcus sms-ed me to say he's having ramen for dinner! I couldn't believe that there wasn't a ramen shop in sight but I am sure there were, and I could not find them because these shops usually don't have those 'display food' on the windows like most restaurants. They were pretty much the hole-in-wall kind and so I took out the trusty Lonely Planet guide and followed the directions there..

Had my ramen fill and I was glad I wrapped up dinner just before the dinner crowd hit at 8pm, because when I was done I saw a long queue outside the shop. It was pretty good, a small bowl of ramen and gyoza was 780￥. Oh, I refused to have dinner at Gion because it was so expensive everywhere! The prices were at least twice of what it costs somewhere else.

Walked home after that because my feet was just hurting terribly by now. Time to give it some rest =) Now..need to figure out what to do tomorrow! Maybe I will visit the 'real' tourist sites like the Golden Pavillion and the Palace?

Full set of pictures in Kyoto here